Hi there! Here I go again with the power bar series! You can read the first part of this series here, where I explain what are power bars and what are they used for, and the second part is here, where you can learn to draft and sew an internal power bar! Today, let’s focus on the external power bar:
Drafting the External power bar
This power bar is drafted in a similar way as the internal power bar (in fact, I used the same power bar pattern for my two bras, the one with the internal power bar and the one with the external one), but it can also have more creative forms.
To draft the external power bar, start the same way as with the internal power bar: overlapping the pattern pieces so the seamlines match and marking the point halfway the underarm edge and the apex of the cup. Now you can draw a line connecting the strap attachment and the lower cup, passing near the mark at the halfway point between the underarm and the apex. But you can be more creative: you can curve that straight line or, if you’re using scalloped lace, you can make a bigger power bar, so the lace is the real protagonist of the bra! So, you can do something like this two examples:
Cutting the external power bar
With the external power bar, the DOGS (Direction Of Greatest Stretch) can go in the same direction as with the internal power bar: parallel to the strap attachment. But, if your power bar falls more on the decorative side, you can change things a bit: as an example, if you’re using scalloped lace you can position the power bar pattern so the scallops run all along the straight edge, and when the bra is complete they’ll frame the cup beautifully!
Sewing the external power bar
As with the internal power bar, you’ll need to sew together all the cup pieces first. Then, you can sew the power bar at the right side of the bra, stitching along the underarm edge and the wire line.
So, we’re all set here! Below these lines you’ll see some power bar inspiration that I’ve collected, I hope you like it! See you next week and enjoy your week 😉