Hi guys! Today I present you the last part of my powerbar series!! You can read here the first part (general information about the power bars), the second part (about internal power bars) and the third part (about external power bars). This fourth part is going to be about drafting and sewing the seamed power bar! It’s a very popular style that allows for lots of variations, so let’s begin!
Drafting the Seamed power bar
We’ll start drafting the same way as we did with the internal and external power bar: overlapping the cup pieces so the seamlines are on top of each other. We also need to mark the apex of the cup and the point halfway the underarm edge and the apex.
Now, you can start drawing your power bar from the strap attachment (or anywhere near it) but you can do different shapes: a straight line similar to what we did on the internal power bar, or a curved line with an S shape, a C shape or a D shape:
All these lines should pass near the halfway point between the underarm and the apex, and they should end near the mark that is below the apex at the lower cup. Also, if you want to draft an S curve or a C curve, be careful and don’t bring the line too close to the underarm edge: remember that you’ll sew an elastic trim at the underarm, so if you got too close you won’t have enough space to sew it!
Next, trace your pattern pieces on a different sheet of paper and add seam allowances to them. Mark a notch on your power bar to indicate the point where the cup seam would cross: it will help you to match the pieces when you’re sewing it to the rest of the cup. You have your new bra cup ready!
Cutting the seamed power bar
Cut the new pattern pieces that you’ve drafted as usual, and remember that the DOGS (Direction of Greatest Stretch) at the power bar piece go parallel to the strap attachment line.
Sewing the seamed power bar
As with the internal and external power bars, you have to sew the lower cup to the upper cup first. Then match this seam to the notch you marked earlier on your power bar piece. After that you can sew the power bar to the rest of the cup and topstitch if you want to. The construction of the rest of the bra goes as usual. We’re finished here!
I hope this whole power bar series had been useful to you! If you have any questions or comments, they’re more than welcome! 😉 Now, I leave you with some bra-inspiration with power bars. See you next time!