How to: Make a scalloped lace panty

I don’t usually share my panty makes in the blog because I find them… a little boring, to be honest! But today I thought I could share my favourite pattern alteration for panties: getting a scalloped lace back!

I like this kind of panties because they’re less bulky (meaning, less visible panty lines under clothing!) and also really comfortable, because you don’t have elastic edges cutting into the skin of your, ejem, rear view 😉

Lace Back - How to

So, if you want to join me in my lacy panty making, here’s the tutorial:


  • A panty pattern that fits you
  • Stretch lace with a scalloped hem
  • Paper, pencil and paper scissors (to mark and cut the new seamlines)
  • The usual supplies that you need for that particular panty pattern (fabric, elastic trim, etc)

Lace Back panty1

First, our lacy panties are going to have a seam at the centre back, because they can’t be cut in one piece. So, if your pattern is supposed to be cut on the fold, we need to add seam allowance to the centre back seam. If you’re going to sew it with an overlock, I recommend adding a ¼” seam allowance. If not, use whatever SA you’re most comfortable with (usually, ½” is fine).

Next, we need to mark the elastic allowance that goes around the leg in the back of your panty, and also the seam allowance at the side and at the crotch seam. The elastic allowance around the leg will be removed because we aren’t going to use elastic in our lace back: it’ll ruin the beautiful effect of the scalloped edge! Nevertheless, if you don’t feel secure enough, you can zig-zag a strip of clear elastic (or very thin elastic) that goes just under the lower edge of the scallops.

Now connect the two points where the elastic allowance connects with the seam allowance at the crotch and at the side seam. Draw a straight line, as shown in the picture below. This straight line is where we’re going to position the lower point of the lace scallops. Once we’ve done it, we’re ready to cut our fabric!

Lace back panty2- Lace placement

But what happens if our scalloped lace is too narrow for the pattern we’re using? Don’t worry, it can still be done! That’s what happened to me when I wanted to make the Noelle panties: my lace didn’t cover the whole back piece of the pattern, so… I split it! I marked the point where my scalloped lace stopped (approx.), and drew a diagonal line below that point, dividing the pattern in two. I added seam allowances to both pieces and cut the upper piece in a different fabric. Ta-dah! 😉

Lace back panty3 - Alternative cutting

When sewing the back panty, you should join first the upper and lower pieces, and then sew the two back pieces together at the centre back seam. Then you can treat them as one piece and continue with your panty construction as usual.

Have you tried this method before? Which are your favourite panty alterations? I’d love to know! 🙂



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