As you remember, a few weeks ago I drafted my first underwired bra pattern, the Anita. It fitted well, but wasn’t perfect, so I’ve been modifying the pattern and… looking for an excuse to use this wonderful satin fabric!
I’ve added a bit more depth to the cups and I’ve widened the center of the bridge about 5 mm. It’s amazing the effects that such tiny changes can produce! Now it fits much better!
Isn’t it elegant? The satin is so soft! Nevertheless, it’s far less glamorous on the inside: cup lining is pink, but casing and nylon tricot are white (I couldn’t find a dye suitable for nylon. It’s pretty difficult to source these things here!). So, I’ve decided that I’ll close my eyes every time I have to turn this bra inside out!
The fabric I’ve used is stretch satin, plus a little non-stretch lace for the upper cups. The cups are lined with sheer cup lining, and the cradle is stabilized with nylon tricot. The back is made of pink mesh, and I’ve used ½” plush back elastic for the band (the black elastic is stronger, so I used it for the lower part of the band).
So, now that I have a well fitting pattern, I can start playing around with it: I’ll try converting it into a partial band bra, making vertical cup seams, adding a front closure… To sum up, EVERYTHING that Beverly Johnson teaches in her Craftsy class, Sewing Bras: Designer Techniques! (Which I highly recommend, it’s so addictive!!)