Vertical Seam Bra: Fail or Success?

I’m getting more ‘experimental’ with my cup seams lately: on my last bra, I did a three part cup, and now I’ve tried a vertical seam bra. But I’ve also experimented with fabric: it’s all about satin!

I used grey stretch satin for the frame (lined, to stabilize it), white dotted powermesh for the back and a floral printed satin for the cups (lined with 15 denier). You may recall this printed satin for one of my Me Made May posts: it was the same satin I used for some of my first handmade garments ever, a skirt and a kimono!


I modified the cup seams on my pattern with the help of Beverly Johnson’s course on Craftsy and some trial and error, but I left the frame of the bra intact. So, now the question is: does it fits? Well… sort of. Technically, it fits: no gaping, the seamline goes exactly through the bust point, blah blah blah… But I don’t like the shape, I can’t explain why! Maybe it’s slightly too pointy for my taste. Maybe I’m not used to this kind of bras. Maybe I chose the wrong fabric… I don’t feel comfortable wearing it but, anyway, it’s a pretty bra and I enjoyed playing with cup seams. Even if don’t wear it again, I learned a lot making it, so that’s a thing to consider: there’s no such thing as a failed sewing project, you can always learn some things from it! 😛

What do you think about that?  Is there a failed sewing project that has a special place in your heart? 😉

AutumnBraCupsResources for making a vertical seam bra:



  1. So stunning! I am loving that we’re both on the floral print bras trend 😉 RE vertical seams, all the bras I own with them (RTW) have more than one – my favourite one has a three part cup with two vertical seams. Maybe this style would solve the pointy issue? But I agree, even if you don’t wear it much, it’s still satisfying to have made something so pretty and delicate!

    1. Thanks, Maddy! Who can’t resist a floral bra anyway? 😉 I believe you’re right, two vertical seams could help solving the ‘pointiness’ (I think I’ve just made up that word, right?). I love playing with patterns and seams placement, so I may try a three part vertical cup. You can always learn something new! 🙂

  2. I definitely agree! There is no such thing as a failed bra- it’s all learning. And vertical seams can be very tricky- especially when it comes to being pointy! I think in that way the problem is two-fold, one reason it might be pointy is because you have to round out vertical seams like crazy, and the other reason might be partly due to the fabric- since the silkier fabrics tend to have more ‘give’ and especially with satin fabrics that will have a lot of bias drape- you definitely get less shaping and more show-through! It is a gorgeous bra though! Maybe add it to your drawer of lingerie that isn’t meant to be worn under anything? 😉

    1. Thanks Erin!! I’ll try again rounding out the seams a little bit more, but in this case I think the blame falls mainly on the fabric: I made a test cup out of foam first and the shape seemed more or less ok, so… pretty fabric has its drawbacks too!
      And yes, this bra it’s already in the special lingerie drawer 😉

  3. It is beautiful. I’d try it on under different styles of tops. I find bras that I don’t like under knits may look great under a woven button front shirt.

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